Susan Miller

·Master of Fine Arts in Jewelry Design, Pratt Institute, 2012

·Bachelor of Arts in Gemology, University of California, Los Angeles, May 2005

·Editor-in-Chief, White Victoria (2018 - present)

·Write and research feature articles and profiles for print and online publication

·Contributing Writer, Modern Jeweler and Ornament

·Write and publish freelance articles for IGS and WSJ Magazine

·Jewelry Appraiser (2012 - 2020)

Akoya pearls, highly esteemed in the jewellery industry, are renowned for their exquisite beauty and elegance.

These pearls are cultured in the Pinctada fucata oyster, primarily found in the salt waters of Japan and China. 

Their distinguishing characteristics include a lustrous, mirror-like surface and a stunning range of colours, from white and cream to pink and silver.

Akoya pearls are prized for their remarkable round shape, achieved through meticulous culturing techniques. 

akoya pearl guide

With their superior quality and classic appeal, Akoya pearls are a popular choice for jewellery connoisseurs and are often used in necklaces, earrings, and bracelets.

Their timeless allure and refined sophistication make them a treasured addition to any collection, making Akoya pearls a significant presence in jewellery.

Understanding Akoya Pearls

Akoya pearls are highly valued in jewellery. These pearls are cultured in the Pinctada fucata oyster, primarily in Japan and China's saltwater. Akoya pearls are renowned for their unique round shape, achieved through precise culturing techniques. They boast a lustrous, mirror-like surface and come in various beautiful colours, from white and cream to pink and silver. Akoya pearls have a timeless appeal and are often used in necklaces, earrings, and bracelets due to their classic elegance.

akoya pearl guide


The history of Akoya pearls dates back to the early 1900s when Kokichi Mikimoto pioneered the process of culturing pearls. His efforts revolutionised the pearl industry, making Akoya pearls more accessible to the public. Today, Japan is known for producing the highest-quality Akoya pearls, renowned for their flawless beauty.


Two main distinctions stand out when comparing Akoya pearls to other pearls: freshwater pearls and South Sea pearls. Freshwater pearls are cultivated in freshwater mussels and tend to be irregularly shaped. They are available in various sizes, shapes, and colours, making them a more affordable option for pearl enthusiasts. 

akoya pearl guide


On the other hand, South Sea pearls are more extensive and rarer, cultivated in the Pinctada maxima oyster found in Australia, Indonesia, and the Philippines. They have a natural lustre and come in white, silver, and gold shades. While South Sea pearls are known for their luxury and grandeur, Akoya pearls possess a unique balance of classic beauty and affordability, making them a popular choice for those seeking elegance within a reasonable budget.

The Pros of Akoya Pearls

Akoya pearls offer numerous advantages in the world of jewellery. Their exceptional round shape, lustrous surface, and range of colours make them a timeless choice. Akoya pearls balance classic elegance and affordability, making them a popular option.

Exquisite Beauty and Luster

akoya pearl guide

Akoya pearls captivate with their exquisite beauty and lustre. These pearls emanate a radiant glow and a mesmerising radiance that adds a touch of elegance to any piece of jewellery. They are highly prized for their perfect round shape and mirror-like surface, which reflect light with unparalleled brilliance. 


Moreover, Akoya pearls showcase a stunning array of colours, from creamy whites to delicate pinks, accompanied by subtle overtone variations. Their alluring charm and stunning appearance make Akoya pearls a coveted choice for those seeking timeless sophistication.

Ideal size and Uniformity

akoya pearl guide

Akoya pearls are typically smaller than others, making them versatile for various jewellery designs. What sets them apart is their remarkable uniformity in size, ensuring a consistent and cohesive look when used in jewellery pieces. This uniformity adds to their overall aesthetic appeal.

High Quality and Durability

akoya pearl guide

Akoya pearls are synonymous with superior quality and excellent craftsmanship. Renowned for their enduring nature, these pearls exhibit remarkable durability. They are meticulously cultivated, resulting in pearls that can withstand the test of time. 


Akoya pearls resist wear and tear, maintaining their beauty and lustre over the years. Their long-lasting nature makes them a wise investment, as they can be cherished and enjoyed for generations.

Cultivation and Harvesting Techniques

akoya pearl guide

Cultivating Akoya pearls involves a meticulous process. Initially, a small bead nucleus is inserted into the Pinctada fucata oyster, which secretes layers of nacre around it over time. This method, known as bead nucleation, ensures the round shape of the pearls. 


Akoya pearl cultivation requires precision and attention to detail compared to other techniques. Sustainability is crucial, with farms implementing responsible practices to protect oyster populations and minimise environmental impact, ensuring the long-term viability of Akoya pearl production.

Investment Value and Market Demand

akoya pearl guide

Akoya pearls hold significant investment value in the jewellery market. Their rarity, exceptional quality, and timeless appeal contribute to their desirability and potential for appreciation over time. The demand for Akoya pearls remains strong, with a growing trend of consumers seeking classic and elegant jewellery pieces. 


Factors influencing the value of Akoya pearls include size, shape, colour, surface quality, and lustre. With their enduring charm and market demand, Akoya pearls can be a valuable addition to any investment.

The Cons of Akoya Pearls

akoya pearl guide

While Akoya pearls have many desirable qualities, they also have a few drawbacks. One limitation is their relatively high price compared to other types of pearls. Additionally, Akoya pearls tend to be smaller than South Sea pearls, which may not suit those seeking larger statement pieces.

Cost and Affordability

akoya pearl guide

Akoya pearls are generally priced higher than others due to their superior quality and classic appeal. The size, shape, colour, lustre, surface quality, and overall uniformity influence the cost of Akoya pearls. These factors contribute to their overall value and determine their affordability in the market.

Sensitivity and Maintenance

akoya pearl guide

Akoya pearls are sensitive to chemicals and perfumes, which can damage their lustre. Avoid exposing them to harsh substances. Clean them gently with a soft cloth after each wear and store them separately to prevent scratches.

Limited Size Range

akoya pearl guide

Akoya pearls' limited size range presents challenges and opportunities for jewellery design. Typically ranging from 2mm to 10mm, their smaller size allows for delicate and intricate designs, ideal for earrings and dainty necklaces. However, it may pose limitations for larger statement pieces or designs that require substantial pearl sizes.

Cultivation Limitations

akoya pearl guide

Cultivating Akoya pearls faces challenges and limitations. Environmental factors, such as water pollution, can hinder successful cultivation. Oysters are susceptible to diseases and parasites. These factors impact the success and availability of Akoya pearls in the market.

Ethical Concerns

akoya pearl guide

The Akoya pearl industry has witnessed growing concerns regarding ethical practices. Responsible sourcing initiatives have been implemented to ensure fair labour practices and environmental sustainability. These measures aim to address issues related to worker welfare, environmental impact, and the responsible management of pearl farms.

Summary and Recommendation

akoya pearl guide

Akoya pearls are highly regarded for their round shape, lustrous surface, and classic elegance. They have a rich history and are predominantly cultured in Japan and China. Compared to other pearls, Akoya pearls balance affordability and beauty. 


Considerations for choosing Akoya pearls include colour preference, size, and budget. While they offer timeless appeal, it's important to note that Akoya pearls may require more delicate care and have a higher price than freshwater pearls. 


Overall, Akoya pearls are a recommended choice for those seeking sophisticated and refined jewellery options.

Akoya Pearls FAQs

What makes Akoya pearls unique compared to other types of pearls?

akoya pearl guide

Akoya pearls are unique due to their exceptional round shape, lustrous surface, and classic elegance. They balance affordability and beauty, making them popular for those seeking sophisticated and refined jewellery options.

Are Akoya pearls more valuable than freshwater pearls?

Yes, generally, Akoya pearls are more valuable than freshwater pearls. Akoya pearls are known for their higher quality, round shape, and lustrous surface, making them a preferred choice for those seeking classic and elegant jewellery.

How can I differentiate between genuine and imitation Akoya pearls?

akoya pearl guide

Examine their surface for uniformity, lustre, and a slight reflection of objects to differentiate between genuine Akoya pearls and imitations. Genuine pearls have minor imperfections, while imitations appear too perfect. Additionally, a reputable jeweller or gemologist can authenticate Akoya pearls through X-ray examination or expert evaluation.

Can I wear Akoya pearls every day?

Yes, you can wear Akoya pearls every day. However, it is essential to handle them with care and avoid exposing them to chemicals, excessive heat, or direct sunlight. Regular cleaning and storing them separately from other jewellery can help maintain their beauty and longevity.

What factors should I consider when purchasing Akoya pearls?

akoya pearl guide

Consider Akoya pearls' size, colour, lustre, surface quality, and shape. Assess your budget and determine whether you prefer a traditional white or a unique colour. Additionally, ensure you buy from a reputable jeweller to guarantee the authenticity and quality of the pearls.

Are there any specific care instructions for Akoya pearl jewelry?

Keeping them away from harsh chemicals, perfumes, and cosmetics is essential. Remove any residue after wearing, and gently wipe the pearls with a soft cloth. Regularly restringing Akoya pearl necklaces is also recommended to ensure their longevity.